It is hard to imagine how the ancient inhabitants of this mythical village climbed their belongings on the backs of mules in adverse weather conditions. It is also not difficult to guess their efforts raising huts in the sheepfolds of Tielve. As heirs for generations of pastoral activity, they dominated the cattle in the high mountain pastures. And then there is the cheese, the Cabrales, ripening patiently in natural caves, like a rough diamond that needed to be carved to value all its carats
We are approaching Tielve today and we see that everything has evolved around hismountain and livestock. Cheese remains the epicenter of the activity. The Cabrales Cheese Tielve is one of the tastiest in the area, with centuries of tradition and a good number of national and international awards. The cattlemen continue climbing to the sheepfolds in summer time and early in the morning for the first milking of the animals, in the vicinity of the houses the cows and the sheep graze; in the corrals, roosters and chickens roam and the goats swarm on the nearby cliffs. That is why Tielve is a nerve center of quiet tourism with a good number of rural houses available to the traveler. It is also a town of good food: part of cheese, sausages, meats, stews and stews like those of yesteryear. Tielve is also an ideal starting point for mountain enthusiasts.
Why visit Tielve
Located about 700 meters above sea level, the term of Tielve covers an area of 43,15 square kilometers inhabited by less than a hundred people. A mountain village with stone houses, with the Church of San Cristobal presiding over a square where there is no lack of such characteristic elements as the laundry room or the bowling alley. The river Duje It is one of its geographical features and the undisputed protagonist of the landscape. It descends swiftly from the central massif of the Picos de Europa and, as it passes through Tielve, it seems to slow down in a meek, box-like route that makes pools suitable for bathing. From here, it rushes back into the Rumiada canal before flowing into the Cares river, very close to Poncebos.
The paths and the traditional paths, the caleyas as it is said in Asturias, they have been main arteries where the rural life of Tielve has circulated since ancient times. Before the appearance of the motorized vehicles, they were visited daily by shepherds, schoolboys, postmen, doctors, priests, neighbors who went to their daily tasks and by all the cattle that they grazed in the meadows of the valley.
Paths and routes from Tielve
One of these caleyas leads tothe cores of Valfrío and Tabaos, two beautiful mountains where the lifestyle of the cabraliegos breeders is still preserved. This is a pleasant hiking route that allows you to discover the wonderful surroundings of Tielve as a family. The distance we have to travel is just 4,7 kilometers, with a difference in altitude that does not exceed the 300 meters and about three hours of travel.
We start from the old laundry, in the same place of Tielve. We ascend at the beginning by a ramp that initially impresses but that is very short. The first section of the route, up to the huts of the Valfrio sheepfold, coincides with the PR-AS-127 and PR-20 trails of the Ruta del Carou. The path ascends diagonally between thorns, hazel trees, bushes and terraces of old cultivated areas. During the climb there are no orientation problems because signs appear from time to time painted on the stones and the trunks of the trees. We arrive at a clearing, from there we start a path that soon after begins to descend towards the valley, but the path of Valfrío runs on the left, always in ascent, crossing the upper part of the river Duje gorge. A half hour excursion we found a water pipe and a trough that serve to refresh and regain strength after the climb. To get to Valfrío you have to turn right on the main track, pass the Collado Puerta and the first huts of the flock appear. There is also a stone next to the road that has the name of the place, the shield of Asturias and the yellow and white markings of the PR-AS-127.
The path continues walking the flock of Valfrío by the shade of a row of ash trees and reaches the curve of the ravine that descends from Posadoiru pass and crosses the group of cabins. At this point, the PR-127 trail leaves the track and turns left to go up the Roman road through the bottom of the trough that forms the ravine. Before crowning the Posadoiru pass, remains of the original layout of the Roman road of Caoru appear. From here there are stunning views of the three massifs of the peaks of Europe.
The path enters a hollow of grass and goes uphill to a gap that is distinguished in the upper part of the valley, to the left of a cabin. This is the step of the Collado de Tabaos, the gateway to the splendid Majada de Tabaos and the place where you can see, on clear days, the summit of Naranjo de Bulnes. On the left we will discover the silhouette of Peña Maín.
In summer cows and horses abound in the prairies. It is easy and fun to fall into the temptation of giving bread or cookies to horses. The problem is that when the food is finished they are never satisfied and they chase the children looking for more food. Never leave children alone when they approach animals.Text: © Ramón Molleda for desdeasturias.com