Of fish and men in Cudillero

Few villages are reflected in the water like Cudillero. A town that gives name to a whole council of the West and that is always its image in duplicate. The large mirror of Cudillero portrays houses that are staggered upwards, forming consecutive urban terraces that are gaining height.


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The word Cudillero refers to the collected form of its development. It has its origin in an organic analogy, that of the elbow. In the 13th century it was called Codillero. The vision of this scenario folded in on itself and painted on the sea, has well deserved some good cinematographic sequences. This was commissioned by the director Jose Luis Garci in his award-winning "Start over", the first Oscar of Spanish cinema. If you want to better understand the photogenic nature of the place, you can initially travel along the route of its viewpoints: The walk to the lighthouse, La Garita, La Atalaya, El Pico ...

Cudillero: fishing village

From the heights it is soon understood that Cudillero is a town born and developed around the fishing activity. It came to have the largest fleet in Asturias and one of the most important in the Bay of Biscay. A picture that is still repeated frequently is that of the boats arriving at a sheltered port, which, like the town, is collected and admirable. Nearby we find a modern fish rula, and next to it is a small shipyard and new industrial-artisan structures that care about getting productive and commercial performance to what the hooks get.

Chopping in Cudillero is easy. If you prefer: tapas. And not just anything, its inhabitants, known as «Pixuets»They are excellent sea food and go through "foodies" when selecting the dish, if possible: a good fish. It should be clarified that around the culinary excellence of monkfish, known here as pixin, a new analogy arises with the gentilicio of its people. Pixin - Pixueto. Man and fish The demanding palate man; The fish, the best fish ever.

There has always been a small rivalry between the inhabitants of the upper neighborhoods and those closest to the port. In Cai, in the high zone, live the caízos that traditionally lived of agricultural works. In the lower part, Cuideiru inhabit the pixuetos concerned about fishing and lately for the tourism that goes to the town to visit it and to sit at the table of a terrace in the town square.

We are in the most spacious area of ​​the elbow. In these tables we find ourselves face to face with the most exquisite of the sea, with the right touch of the tradition of its cuisine: hake of the skewer, the aforementioned pixin (monkfish), sea bream, rock fish and local seafood, spider crabs, lobsters, barnacles and a long etcetera. As a characteristic dish, the curadillo: a fish from the family of sharks that heals in the air and is cooked in the traditional way. Cudillero and its sea offer the best dishes and the most memorable table toasts in the midst of a picturesque environment.

What we shouldn't miss in Cudillero

For those who want to attend to other types of reasons to visit this town, do not worry, there are also a few that are sought. Stresses especially the town of El Pito, where the Palacios Set Selgas, popularly known as the Asturian Versailles. Apart from a dreamy decoration: tapestries, clocks, furniture, inside you will discover an impressive collection of works of art, with oils by Titian, Goya and El Greco. Also in El Pito is the Church of Jesus Nazareno, from the 19th century, which preserves in its crypt the oldest pre-Romanesque altar in Spain (8th century).

In Cudillero itself, highlight its two most important buildings: The parish church of Gothic style, and the Chapel of Humilladero, its oldest building.

If we had to describe in a few lines the municipality to which Cudillero gives name, we will begin by saying that almost the entire coastline of the council, from the Turbera de las Dueñas (declared a National Monument) to the limit with the council of Valdés, is included in the Regional Network of Protected Natural Spaces, under the name of Protected Landscape of the Western Coast. In the territory there is an appreciable contrast between the coast and the interior. The coastline is dominated by high cliffs (of an average height of 80 meters): Cabo Vidio and its lighthouse (in this case with heights of more than 100 meters), Punta Borona, Punta de Malperro, Cabo de la Concha de Artedo, etc. The interior of the council is mountainous although less steep than the rest of the region. The Peñas de Cuetu mark the roof of the council, the 786 meters of altitude.

In the breaks of the cliffs inlets like La Arquina, or several beautiful beaches like Aguilar, the Shell of Artedo, Oleiros, San Pedro, La Cueva, Vallina, El Silencio, Destillo or Ballota. On this coast there are also sometimes sharp little islands of film.

Say finally that the June 29 will be celebrated the parties of L'Amuravela. A date with Asturian sarcasm. In them a preacher makes a relation in pixueto (speaks of Cudillero) of the events of the year in an ironic and critical way.

Text: © Ramón Molleda for desdeasturias.com


coordinates Latitude: 43.5633202 Length: -6.1458421
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